Monday, October 26, 2009

Opportunity for Poor Children

I do not know how it is possible that I have yet to write about the main reason I came to Mae Hong Son, but I will do my best to summarize these last three weeks of volunteering.
From the concrete road where I park my moped, it is about a seven minute walk to the OPC. The dirt path, marked by a modest blue sign, takes me along side an expansive rice patty field. (The grains of rice have just turned up this last week.) On my left there is a river, sometimes deep brown after a heavy rain and other times completely clear. Along the path there are several bamboo huts, a makeshift iron fence, and always plenty of wildlife - frogs, huge insects, and even once a snake. Two bamboo bridges announce my arrival at the OPC. I tread lightly while crossing, but the children always fly across completely unnerved.

October is winter vacation for the schools in Thailand. So, of the usual fifty children aged 8-15 that live here at the orphanage, only about fifteen remain. The others have returned home to whatever family they have - some Thai, most Burmese - meaning this is not exactly an orphanage in the traditional sense, as it was made out to be in my introductory materials.

"How can orphans be going home?" I initially asked Kam Chuen, the Burmese man that runs the OPC. At the time, he gave a rather brief answer. But over the weeks he told us the boys' stories and I began to understand that sometimes it is not only the children without parents or family who are orphans in this world of ours.

Som Sak - 11
He is quiet and sweet, a total perfectionist at arts and crafts, and has a soft, beautiful smile.
Som Sak has a mother and a father. They live here in Mae Hong Son only five minutes away from their son, but he did not visit them during the holiday at all. They are homeless. Som Sak's father is an alcoholic who made him beg for money along the lake. He was beaten when he returned home empty handed.

Poot and Cain - 10 and 7, brothers.
The first day I met Poot he engaged me in a wrestling match and attempted to get my hands behind my back. We could spend hours playing chase around a single picnic table. He is a big fan of his Power Rangers t-shirt. Poot just returned from two days at home. He came home with his little brother, who the neighbors reported was not attending school and often went hungry. The first day Cain came to the OPC we went on a field trip to a local Watt, spent an hour at the swimming pool, and drank soft drinks. The boy probably though he landed in heaven.

Tee La Pon - 9
This boy constantly strikes a Power Ranger pose. He likes to play pretend kung-fu and really admires Spiderman.
I had the opportunity to meet Tee La Pon's mother on the day we were bringing him home for a few days. Apparently, he had cried that morning when told he would be leaving the OPC for two nights. He asked to only go for one day, and later, not to spend the night at all. It was clear why. Tee La Pon's mother came stumbling up to her empty hut, clearly drunk, wreaking of rice wine, and quite possibly insane. He did not even stay for five minutes.

Sa Zing - 11
I absolutely love this child.
Sa Zing and his brother Sa Hon (15) are orphans in the traditional sense. Their mother died of AIDs a few years ago. Sa Zing has HIV and, subsequently, a constant runny nose.

Um Mong - 11
Training to be a Thai Boxer. Not actually...but should be. We played boxing, not always in a "pretend" way either, nearly every day. He likes to say, "Chicken!" while pointing at the ceiling. I fell for it a few too many times than I'd like to admit and received many pokes under my under the chin. While aggressive, Um Mong was also the most affectionate of the boys, generous with his hugs.


These are the boys I have spend my last three weeks with. I can't even say "teaching," for our English lessons were sparse. (It was there holiday after all!) Mostly it was just playing. Badminton. Coloring. Tag. Kung-Fu. Football. Painting. Made up games. Language was never a barrier with them. We always had something to do, some small, simple way to pass our time.

Now that I am leaving tomorrow, I see how much this small group of boys has taught me about living. They have made a home for their self at the OPC, under terrible circumstances they have become a family. It is all smiles, always a happy face. They have their haven, their Opportunity here at the OPC. They walk along the rice field and the river, cross their bamboo bridge, and have a world where all is well.

Monday, October 12, 2009

Warning: I Drive a Motorbike

Mae Hong Son is a bit too hilly and a bit too spread out for me to ride a bicycle. Thus, as my title explains, I drive a moped. This is a first for me, but I am absolutely in love with this mode of transportation now that I've somewhat mastered it. Yesterday put my new found skills to the test in an all day excursion (by moped of course) into the mountains of the area.

For about an hour and a half we (we being myself, four other volunteers, and four Thai that we practice English with) journeyed through rice patties and jungle up winding, steep roads to the Chinese town of Mae Aw on the Thai-Burmese boarder. (Wow that was a lot of prepositions.) All the buildings in Mae Aw are made from straw and mud, and are situated surrounding a gorgeous lake. Large tubs in the front of shops display candied fruits, nuts, and teas. We were ushered into one such store and given a "Free" tea tasting. The Ginseng was excellent!

From Mae Aw we headed back down a bit and turned up another road that brought us to "Little Switzerland." You shall understand as I explain. As we rode up the mountain, the scenery suddenly changed from dense, twisting jungle to vertical, spaced out pine trees! It was quite a bizarre feeling to know that I was in Thailand, but sat by a river in a forest of pine trees that very well could have been somewhere in the Sierra's, or Switzerland.

After all that accelerating up mountains, it was time for a gas fill up. At a tiny rode side "gas station," the gas was suctioned down a clear tube from a glass container that had markings along the side for measurement. I'd never seen anything like it. But I digress.....

Last on the tour for the day was a phenomenal waterfall. Because it is the end of the rainy season however, we could not get too close. From there we headed back to the town of Mae Hong Son for some much needed refreshments.

So those were the major sights we set out to see, and as fantastic as they were, the real highlight for me was the scenery, the backdrop of this breath taking place. During the drive I had to constantly remind myself to stay focused on the road, for all I really wanted to do was try to take in everything around me. In fact the real danger probably was not my novice moped driving skills, but all the beautiful sights to be seen.

It was such great fun though - zooming up and down these mountains. Mom and Dad, sorry to say, but the inner Dare Devil emerged full force.

I should also mention that I am now a real fan of rice patties. They are absolutely awesome. First, they have a really great sent that I now can spot from afar. Second is their vibrant green color that perfectly contrasts the darker forest green of the hills behind them. And last in my obsession are the wooden huts that usually accompany rice patties, their straw roofs barely peaking out of the fields that look ready to engulf them.

OK, maybe I'm getting a bit carried away, but take away message is that rice patties not only feed a staggering proportion of the world's population. They do it with style.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Mae Hong Son or Bust

I would like to give you all a schedule of my time in transit from Nong Khai to Mae Hong Son:

3:00-3:150pm Tuk tuk to the NK bus station
3:40-5:00pm Bus from NK to Udon Thani
5:00- 7:30pm Misadventures in Udon Thani (details to follow)
8:00pm -8:00am Bus from UT to Chiang Mai
9:00am-5:00pm Bus from CM to MHS (details to follow)

That, my friends, was a 26 hour journey.

Alright now for the details I'm sure you are all dying to hear:

5:00- 7:30pm Misadventures in Udon Thani
I traveled the first leg of the trip with two fellow volunteers who were headed to Chiang Mai, Kristy and Mark. We arrived in Udon Thani with two and a half hours to kill before our 12 hour bus ride and figured that we would go into town, grab some dinner and then head back to the bus station. So we checked out Mark's Lonely Planet to find a place to eat and were exuberantly greeted by a tuk tuk driver as soon as he saw we were looking to go into town.
" We want to go to ____Hotel," we said, knowing that the hotel would be an easy point of reference for the driver.
"Hotel gone," he replied, also motioning with his hands. "____ Hotel! 250 Batt/night! I take you there."
"No, no! Not sleep. Only to eat." more hand motions
"Hotel Gone!"
"We only want to eat next door."
"Gone!"
We had a group pow-wow. Kristy explained that tuk tuk drivers commonly held commissions with local hotels when they bring in guests. The "hotel closed" move was one of the oldest tricks in the book.
"Just take us here," we said pointing to the map.
So we hopped onto the tuk tuk (three large travel backpacks and three cramped people in all) and off we went into Udon Thani. During the 10 minute drive we continuously questioned whether or not the driver was taking us to our so-called "closed" hotel or his hotel recommendation.
He stopped the tuk tuk on a fairly empty street and pointed. "See. Closed!"
There we stood, completely dumbstruck, staring at a gaping whole between two buildings.
"Hotel," he said motioning to one of the spaces. "Restaurant," motioning to the other.
Apparently Mark's Lonely Planet was a bit out dated....
Speechless and rather embarrassed, we disembarked and attempted to find another place to eat. But our search only lead us to another tuk tuk driver who we asked to take us to the Tesco Lotus we had seen while driving in.
I'm still not quite sure what the lesson from that story should because the one time you don't believe a tuk tuk driver he turns out to be telling the truth. The next time you do that, you know you'll just be falling for one of their moves.

9:00am-5:00pm Bus from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son
As the time suggests, it was quite a long ride. Eight hours to be exact.
If you have ever taken the road to Hana on Maui, you can begin to understand what this road was like. So imagine the Hana Hy and multiply it by four. Then imagine that you are traveling at an average of 20 km/hour on a bus that sounds like its about to break down at any second.
While gruelingly long, it was probably one of the most beautiful stretches of road I have ever traveled on. The entire way had 360 views of dense, lush, green jungle. We also passed through some towns that I would definitely like to go back and spend some time visiting.
Lesson to this story: take the mini van, not the local bus, when traveling though northern Thailand for hours at a time.

Naga Fire Ball Festival

As many of you know, I was extremely excited to go watch this "Fire Ball" phenomenon that happens in northern Thailand on the Mekong River. It occurs once every year on the evening of the last full moon in October. From what I had heard, round balls of "fire" come up from the river and rise into the sky. According to the local legends, there is a Naga, a big green snake, that lives in the Mekong and protects the cities along the river. It is this Naga that send off these fire balls.

However, for those of us that don't believe in local folklore, I received a semi-logical explanation from a westerner who attested the fire balls to the tides and lunar calender. He explained that they are probably bubbles of methane gas that rise from the bottom of the river continuously throughout the year, but that they can only be seen at certain times when the tide is just right.

So, with the hopes of seeing this wonder, we set out on a crowded hour bus ride to the town of Phonphisai . I would like to say that every person in northern Thailand showed up for the festival, for that is what it seemed like to me, however this would be far too big a hyperbole. But boy was it crowded! So crowded in fact that we left the main viewing area and went to sit about 3 km down river in a less cramped area. We bought a straw mat, settled down in what basically was a marshy, grassy piece of land, and tried to get comfortable along the sloped river side.

There we stayed for a good hour and a half without seeing any fireballs. Feeling quite defeated after all the effort it took to get to Phonphisai, we decided around 9:30 to go get some dinner and then headed home.

Only the next morning would I learn that in the time that we were changing locations, from the crowded main streets to the secluded marsh, some of the other volunteers actually saw some fire balls. I did hear from Nong Khai locals though that this was a rather weak showing of fire balls and that perhaps I would have better luck coming next year.

What I should have been seeing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm64JhA_EZc

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Birthday Card from the Monks


Happy Birthday to Carly

We wish you success with your life and have a big happy family.
If you want anything may the Buddha help you.
If you have a boyfriend we wish he is smart man.
If you have children we wish your children are famous people in the world.

From
All of Student